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One found with joy that the south Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight barbecue sticks (if made of wood, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

400g starchy potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml flavorless oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Pour the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a sizable container with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Preheat the broiler to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, topped with a little more sea salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.